Projects:Gipsy Danger

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A build log and documentation for our group built 3D Printer, codenamed Gipsy Danger.

3D Printer Build Book[edit]

Large Bed 3D Printer at Port City Makerspace

Parts Lists[edit]

Parts List for Frame and Control Board

Programming[edit]

As of 07/04/13:

I had been following the steps of: [-] http://reprap.org/wiki/Burning_the_Sanguino_Bootloader_using_Arduino_as_ISP

which for the bootloader is referenced here: [-] http://code.google.com/p/sanguino/downloads/list and specifically the latest release of [-] http://sanguino.googlecode.com/files/Sanguino-0023r4.zip

However, the above link doesn't have a bootloader that specifically target our configuration, which uses a 20 MHz. Using the ArduinoISP seems to program the blank Atmel chip with the bootloader. However, upon placing it in the actual PCB and connecting to it using the Arduino IDE results in the following time-out error: avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00


However under: [-] http://reprap.org/wiki/Gen7_Arduino_IDE_Support#Bootloader_Upload

the file for

"Gen7 Arduino IDE Support v2.1" at [-] https://github.com/Traumflug/Generation_7_Electronics/blob/Gen7-Arduino-IDE-Support-2.1/release%20documents/Gen7%20Arduino%20IDE%20Support%202.1.zip?raw=true

very much does have the file.

TODO: [-] configure the IDE with Gen7 Arduino IDE Support v2.1 [-] upload "bootloader-1284P-20MHz.hex"



STEPS USING ARDUINO AS ISP

I had used the following link as the guide for programming the blank Atmel chip using an Arduino as the programmer (ISP = In-System Programmer). This was wired using a crystal and two capacitors, instead of a resonator.

http://reprap.org/wiki/Burning_the_Sanguino_Bootloader_using_Arduino_as_ISP [X] Arduino Uno [X] Arduino IDE 1.0.1

Wiring steps: [X] Arduino Pin D13 to ATmega 644p Pin 8 SCK [X] Arduino Pin D12 to ATmega 644p Pin 7 MISO [X] Arduino Pin D11 to ATmega 644p Pin 6 MOSI [X] Arduino Pin D10 to ATmega 644p Pin 9 Reset [X] Arduino Pin D9 to ATmega 644p LED1 Anode [X] Arduino Pin D8 to LED2 Anode [X] Arduino Pin D7 to LED3 Anode [X] LED1, LED2, and LED3 Cathodes to R1 [X] R1 to Arduino GND [X] Arduino Pin Reset to C1 [X] C1 to Gnd [X] Arduino Pin 5v to ATmega 644p Pin 30 VCC [X] Arduino Pin Gnd to Breadboard GND [X] ATmega 644p Pin 30 VCC to ATmega 644p Pin 32 VCC [X] ATmega 644p Pin 32 VCC to ATmega 644p Pin 10 VCC [X] ATmega 644p Pin 31 to Breadboard Gnd [X] XTAL Pin 1 to ATMega 644p Pin 12 [X] 22pF Cap#1 Pin 1 to XTAL Pin 1 [X] 22pF Cap#1 Pin 2 to GND [X] XTAL Pin 2 to ATMega 644p Pin 13 [X] 22pF Cap#2 Pin 1 to XTAL Pin 2 [X] 22pF Cap#2 Pin 2 to GND [X] ATMega 644p Pin 11 to GND


Discussions from old wiki[edit]

10-30-2013

Attendees: Jeff G, Miranda, Josh

General discussion: This was probably the most productive meeting we've had in months!

We reflected on the fact that the last few meetings haven't been as productive as we'd have liked; distractions and other obstacles meant that work on the documentation wasn't moving forward as fast as we'd like and the issues list wasn't getting any shorter. We decided to tackle a few specific technical issues and try to move the printer forward to the point of being more reliable and useable.

What we did: - Leveling the bed. The current bed is plexi with a coat of painter's tape. It was hard to level because of the layer of insulating cork between the very level aluminum bed and the plexi; the cork isn't perfectly flat and the double-sided tape holding it down was lumpy. Since the heat tiles are out of the picture for the moment, we decided to remove the cork and use large binder clips to secure the print surface. This worked very well. - Fixing the X-axis movement. The x-carriage was binding up; it felt like the bearings were out of parallel in the carriage. We loosened the set-screws and pulled the rear bearing out; it wasn't sliding well. We cleaned out the gunk and lubed the slides with clean lubricant. Movement was much improved. We slid the bearing back and tightened the setscrews just enough to grip without knocking the bearings out of true. - Z-axis binding. The threaded rods have a bend in them which was binding up close to the home position. Removing one screw on the flanged threaded nut allowed a little movement so it didn't bind as much. Lubing the threads helped also.

After that, we adjusted the z home position and did a very successful test print. The print did pause about 2/3rds of the way through; clicking "pause" and "resume" in Pronterface caused it to restart. There were no errors on the screen. This isn't the first time this has happened and it's great that it was recoverable, but we need to get rid of the pauses on long prints. We'll bump this to the top of the issues list.

Stuff to work on next: - Figure out the freezing issue. Likely to be one of two things - a communication issue (noise on the USB cable, communication baud rate, etc) or a computer issue (USB sleep setting, etc). - Make the endstops more easily adjustable. We might be able to do this by finding other endstop clip designs for MendelMax on Thingiverse and modding them to have easily reachable setscrews.

Longer term ("nice to have") stuff: - Re-solder and reconnect the heated beds. This includes locating the temp sensor in a way that works for both the single tile and all 4 tiles. - Glass print surface with a retention system. We need a metal or plastic frame to hold the glass down, and preferably stack the heat tiles and glass surface in such a way that is easily level-able. - Design a bracket for a cooling fan - required for fast, high-quality PLA prints

Yay progress!


9/25/2013 Attendees: Jeff G, Wayne, Clint, Miranda, Roger


Update on printer:

· Printer works but not reliably

· Bed glass broke, currently has a plexi-glass bed

Immediate items

1. Fix printer freeze up issue

2. X-axis Bearing not staying in place

3. Need to level print bed

4. Put heating pads back on

5. Make adjustable end stops

Intermediate-term items

6. Documentations

Longer-term items

7. Allowing other computers to connect to Gypsy


08-28-13


Attendees: Jeff G, Paul, Miranda, Roger

General Discussion: The printer was a big hit at the maker faire - a lot of people seemed impressed/excited by it It's now named Gipsy Danger, after the giant 'bot in Pacific Rim. It printed its first objects at the 1 year anniversary party - very appropriate The printer is functional, but we have a lot of things left to do (list to be included below) so we will continue to have a meeting every other week so we follow through to completion.

Updates from last meeting's tasks: Mount the other components to the drawer - done Finish & mount the hot end - still in progress, alternate hot end mounted for now Rewire the last stepper motor cable - done Print endstop mounts & mount switches - done Wire in all the electronics - power supplies, controller board, thermistors, end - done Test, calibrate, test, calibrate, test, calibrate, test, calibrate, test, calibrate, test, calibrate, test, calibrate, test, calibrate, test.... - done To do:

    Priority for next meeting - 

Documentation - Miranda & Jeff Black edition pololus installed in extruder and Z axes - Jeff Complete & install our hot end - Paul Print new x-carriage - Jeff (wait on design from Paul)

     Important, but to be done as we can - 

Publish STLs - Paul Second extruder Motor - Jeff will order sub-control board - Jeff to send link to Paul Second hot end - Paul Second Gen7 board - Miranda and Roger Cable track other end STL - Jeff Build second cable track - Roger Lighted switch LEDs - Jeff to send schematic to Paul Copper plate heat spreader - Paul Better heatsink - Paul Steampunk bling - Roger, Paul, Miranda

08-14-13

Attendees: Jeff G, Paul, Roger, Mike (new), Jeff (new), guest appearance by Chris

General notes: Jeff gave a summary of the project so far to the new members and updated folks on the progress we've made in the last week on assembling the axes and testing movement with Paul's Printrboard. Paul, Mike, Roger fabbed the front panel Jeff, Roger, and the other Jeff configured the default Marlin package with the correct settings for the Gen7 board and thermistor heat sensing and pushed it to the board (!!). Ran into a couple of issues around setting the correct board type and temp sensor, mostly because Jeff can't read instructions :D but it's working now. Will make sure that Jeff and Miranda add the specific settings for Marlin in the docs Jeff soldered the pin headers on the Pololu stepper drivers and plugged them into the Gen7 board We all held our breath as we connected one of the steppers to each motor output on the Gen7 board and made sure that they each could make a motor move


Updates from last meeting's tasks: USB chips were sodlered on. We had problems connecting to the board from Jeff's Macbook, which turns out to be a USB driver issue. We can connect from a Windoze box and push the bootloader & firmware. Atmel chip is programmed! Clint and Paul hogged out a lot of material from the print bed to lighten it Paul finished all three axes (including the idlers) "Groundhog test" done :) Electronics drawer now has a back panel with an AC outlet and a power switch. Today in the meeting, we fabricated the front panel for the heated bed switches and heated bed PID controller. Other parts are arranged and Jeff will mount them this coming week The hot end needs more work by Paul - adding a thermal break to prevent heat from creeping up. He bought some PEEK (high temp plastic) rod to mill down for this purpose Stepper motor cables are done, but one needs to be rewired Cable tracks aren't done, but that might have to wait till after the maker faire.

To do: Mount the other components to the drawer - probably Jeff Finish & mount the hot end - Paul Rewire the last stepper motor cable - Jeff or Paul Print endstop mounts & mount switches - likely Paul Wire in all the electronics - power supplies, controller board, thermistors, end - TBA Test, calibrate, test, calibrate, test, calibrate, test, calibrate, test, calibrate, test, calibrate, test, calibrate, test, calibrate, test....


07-30-13

Attendees: Jeff, Paul, Chris, Josh, Nate and Tanya

General Notes:

We are shooting to have the printer up and running by the Dover Mini Maker Faire on August 24th. The biggest wild card for this is the untested control board. If the control board does not work by August 14th, we will use an already proven alternate board. We should come up with a name for the printer. The current nominees are: "Big Bot" with the tagline "we like big bots and we cannot lie" Printalicious After one of Chuck Yeager's planes Jeff updated the parts list on the Wiki with Miranda's help. The goal was to break the printer up into modules and then the parts themselves into different categories. Paul is working on the printer axes Paul is working on belt tensioners; there is currently one installed on the "y" axis. Two boards are mostly populated We now have a nice 12V (30A) power supply and there is a 5V one on the way. We now have thermocouples We need to make sure we are keeping track of the steps to complete this printer so that we can share. This includes all photos, video, part files, BOM etc. Breaking down the printer and then re-assembling it to produce a time-lapse would be great. Make a paper "build book" to bring to shows etc. to make the project sharable without a computer. Reminder from previous week: For items that need to be purchased for the project, we need group approval prior to purchase. If you have purchased components in the past, submit receipts for reimbursement. We have used the Wiki to deposit photos; Miranda provided feedback that it works well To Do:

Solder USB chips onto the control boards Print out cable tracks Fabricate eccentric idler for "x" axis Groundhog test the board Lay out the electronics drawer Attach the drawer to the printer frame Add some bling to the Wiki Finish up hot end Fabricate the front panel (bent plexi?) Cut harnesses off of the steppers and connect 4 conductor pig tails Lighten up the print bed Program the Atmel chip with Arduino

Stuff To Get:

· Jeff:

o Stand-offs to mount the board to the plexi drawer (or print them)

o Big clunky switches for the heater beds

o Power socket

o Power switch


Josh:

o Plexi for drawer

o Switches?


07-17-13

Attendees: Jeff, Paul, Chris, Clint, Josh and Roger/Miranda (via Google Hangout from near Hong Kong).

General Notes:

We should come up with a name for the printer. The current nominees are: Big Bot Printalicious After one of Chuck Yeager's planes Jeff updated the parts list on the Wiki with Miranda's help. The goal was to break the printer up into modules and then the parts themselves into different categories. Paul is working on the printer axes Two boards are mostly populated We'll order a nice 12V power supply and maybe use the ATX supply as well We need to make sure we are keeping track of the steps to complete this printer so that we can share. This includes all photos, video, part files, BOM etc. Breaking down the printer and then re-assembling it to produce a time-lapse would be great. Make a paper "build book" to bring to shows etc. to make the project sharable without a computer. Reminder from previous week: For items that need to be purchased for the project, we need group approval prior to purchase. If you have purchased components in the past, submit receipts for reimbursement. Questions:

Best way to program the Atmel chip? Arduino sounds like the best option thus far. What’s the best way to control the four heaters? Bank of toggle switches on the “porch”? To Do:

Attach the drawer to the printer frame Print the tensioner for the pulley (Paul) Produce a 3D model of the pulley to print as an alternative to turning it on a lathe (Paul) Figure out a good spot (Instagram, Imgur, Picassa, Flickr, the wiki etc.) to put a project album Add some bling to the Wiki Finish up hot end Cut harnesses off of the steppers Figure out the size of the power supply and order one Lighten up the print bed

Stuff To Get:

· Jeff:

o K-type thermocouple (QTY a few)

o Spool of 22 ga ribbon cable (4 conductor) for motor connections

o 4-pin headers

o 12V power supply

07-03-13

Attendees: Jeff, Paul, Nate, Chris, Wayne and Josh

General Notes:

Two boards are etched; one is drilled to accept components The heat tiles arrived (we got an extra one from the eBay guy) The QTY 5 Pololu stepper drivers arrived The hot end is coming along We need to make sure we are keeping track of the steps to complete this printer so that we can share. This includes all photos, video, part files, BOM etc. Breaking down the printer and then re-assembling it to produce a time-lapse would be great. Make a paper "build book" to bring to shows etc. to make the project sharable without a computer. For items that need to be purchased for the project, we need group approval prior to purchase. If you have purchased components in the past, submit receipts for reimbursement. Questions:

Best way to program the Atmel chip? Arduino? What’s the best way to control the four heaters? Bank of toggle switches on the “porch”? To Do:

Attach the drawer to the printer frame Check quantities of electronic components. Are we missing 4-pin headers? Check if the expansion board for the dual extruder has temperature control Add some bling to the Wiki Finish up hot end Cut harnesses off of the steppers Figure out the size of the power supply and order one Incorporate a check engine light into the printer Lighten up the print bed

Stuff To Get:

· Jeff:

o K-type thermocouple (QTY a few)

o Spool of 22 ga ribbon cable (4 conductor) for motor connections


·  06-19-13

Attendees: Jeff, Paul, Roger, Miranda, Clint and Josh

General Notes:

· Somehow incorporate Elmo Questions:

· Best way to program the Atmel chip? Arduino? · What’s the best way to control the four heaters? Bank of toggle switches on the “porch”? To Do:

· Attach the drawer to the printer frame

· Check quantities of electronic components

· Etch the board on Friday

· Add some bling to the Wiki

· Design DIY hot end

Stuff To Get:

· Clint:

o Get supplies (vinegar, salt, hydrogen peroxide etc.) to etch the boards

o Desk lamp

· Jeff:

o Control board components

o Motor connectors

o 6”x6” heated beds (QTY 4)

· Paul:

o Fast acting switches for end stops

o Titan leveling feet Paul (made by Outwater Plastics Industries)

o Metal material for hot end

o Pulleys (motors have 4mm shaft)

o Belts (1/4” width and 0.080” pitch seems about right)

·         Miranda:

o Stuff from Staples that Jeff emails



06-05-2013

General Notes: 3.0mm filament was decided upon Leave half of the drawer “porch” free space for future expansion (rotary dial for computer-less menu selections etc.) Affix the power supply to the frame (not the drawer), so the power cord (to the wall) is stationary Printing chocolate would be totally awesome An Excel sheet was started to track expenses. Please revise, detail and/or add line items to the attached and re-send to the group so we all have the most up to date copy. Miranda, if you can improve on the financial format, that would be great.

Questions: Would bubble levels be beneficial? Does the printer need to be level? Best way to program the Atmel chip? Arduino? What’s the best way to control the four heaters? Bank of toggle switches on the “porch”?

05-22-2013

Questions: 3.0mm vs. 1.75mm filament? 1.75mm may be a better choice as the current PCM printer uses this size Make our own extruder head? All metal?