Model of saw: PCS31230-TGP236
- Do not operate until you have gotten training on this tool
- If you trigger the $75 brake, you pay for it and the ruined blade
- Check before you cut! If your wood is anything other than kiln-dried lumber, check to see it will not trip the brake.
- If your material is conductive use Bypass mode. Refer to the manual if you need to remember how it works.
Manual: link to google drive
- How to Select Table Saw Blades - choose the right blade for the right job
- Kickback - what it looks like, and why it happens
- Article: WoodSmith Spirit - Table Saw Kickback
- Ripping, Cross-cutting, push-sticks, featherboards - What they are and how you use them
- Working with twisted or crooked wood - If it's not flat and stable, how to correct it so it doesn't kicback
SawStop Safety System
These are the relevant new steps involving the safety system. Make sure you watch these!
- How does SawStop work
- Adjusting the Brake spacing
- Recovering an activated brake
- Resetting the arbor arm
- Additional safety features
- Changing to a dado blade
Table Saw Basics
Everyone should watch these! Even if you're a seasoned wood worker, a brief refresher on proper safety is never a bad thing.
- Table Saw Fundamentals
- SawStop Professional Cabinet Saw Features
- Five Minute Guide: How to Use a Tablesaw - FineWoodworking on Youtube
- How to Use a Table Saw For Beginners - Mike Pattenson on Youtube
- Choosing the Best Table Saw Blades: Woodworking for Beginners #30 - WoodWorkWeb on Youtube
- How to Cut a Dado with a Table Saw - WoodworkersJournal on Youtube
- Table Saw Techniques playlist
Maintenance and Adjustments
October 2018 Introductory Training
- You trip the brake you buy it. If the blade was the shop’s you will pay to replace that. Brake cartridges are $70, and blades are generally $40-60.
- Don’t slam the fence into the blade while spinning down. Do not cut the fence. This keeps happening with every saw, and there’s no good reason. If you cut the fence, you’re buying a replacement.
- Use the appropriate support for the cut you’re doing: use the fence for ripping, and the sled or miter gauge for crosscutting. NEVER USE BOTH. There is a high chance of the piece jamming between the blade and both of those.
- Check your materials if you’re not sure if they’re conductive. Either touch it against the blade while not spinning or make a cut in Bypass mode and see if it would have triggered the brake.
- Just because this is a “safer” saw does not mean it cannot hurt you. Treat it the same.
- Don’t be stupid
- Moving/Working too fast. This can cause damage to our equipment. Safe practice is slow.
- Touching tape measure against the blade while it spins down. This will trigger the brake.
- Cutting wet wood. This will trigger the brake.
- Pulling too hard on the main switch. This can damage the switch.
- Contacting the blade with your hand, including when the saw is off but the blade is still moving. This will trigger the brake.
Check This Every Time
- When changing a blade: use the yellow gap checker and adjust brake spacing if necessary
- When cutting anything other than plywood or kiln dried lumber: check to see if it will trigger the brake system before cutting.
- Check for staples and nails.
- Check the blade that is on there, make sure it is appropriate for your cut (ripping or crosscutting)