Stained Glass: Difference between revisions
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[[File: | [[File:Stained Glass Tools.jpg|400px|thumb|Stained Glass Tools]] | ||
=About our machine= | =About our machine= | ||
Tools available: | Tools available: | ||
*Glass grinder | *Glass grinder | ||
| Line 14: | Line 12: | ||
=Safety= | =Safety= | ||
* | *Safety Glasses/Goggles: Wear them when cutting, grinding, or soldering to protect from flying glass shards or hot solder spatter. | ||
*Gloves: Use gloves (nitrile for chemicals, heat-resistant for hot work) to prevent cuts and chemical burns from flux/patina. | |||
*Protective Clothing: Wear long sleeves, pants, and closed-toe shoes to cover skin from glass and heat. | |||
*Face Shield: Recommended for extra protection against flux splatter. | |||
=Tips= | =Tips= | ||
* | *SCORE: A light continuous scratch on the glass surface, extending from one edge of the glass to the other edge. A good score should look like a hair on the glass; a string is too heavy. Also, a good score has no breaks or gaps in it. Heavy pressure is not required and in fact can cause a poor break of the glass. | ||
*CUTTING: Hold the cutter as you would a pen or pencil. Don’t tilt from side to side, but keep the wheel perpendicular to the piece of glass. Drag your hand as you score to control the motion. Steering is from the elbow/shoulder, your wrist should remain motionless. Stand rather than sit while cutting. You can either push or pull the cutter. To cut straight lines pull; for shaped pieces push so that you can see where the pattern lines are located. Always score the glass on the shiniest or smoothest side. Make only one score at a time. Break the glass, then make the next score. Avoid running your score lines less than 1/2″ from the side of the glass. NEVER back up or re-score the same line. | |||
*BREAKING: | |||
**Two Fisted Grip – with hands in tight fists, place fingers together on bottom side of glass, with score line running between fingers. Place thumbs on top surface of glass, slightly apart, one on each side of the score. Press down with your thumbs, and up with your fingers to snap the glass along the score line. | |||
**Running Pliers – have a curved jaw that allows for more control when making long or more difficult breaks. Line up score with indicator line on the upper jaw, placing pliers ¼” to ½” over the glass edge. Gently clamp down on the glass. Turn the set screw until you feel it just touch the glass, then back off the set screw slightly and squeeze. | |||
**Breaker/Grozer Pliers – are used for removing pieces of glass too small for hands or running pliers. They have a curved lower jaw and a flat upper jaw, both with a serrated inner surface. Place the pliers approximately 1/16″ in from the glass, parallel to the score line, with the flat jaw on top. Use your other hand while applying the two fisted grip (described earlier) and bend pliers down and away from the score. | |||
**Grozing – is the removal of flares, nibs and small pieces from the glass edge. Using one hand to hang onto the glass, roll the serrated surface of the Breaker/Grozer Pliers over the edge, removing unwanted glass. Grozing allows you to clean the glass edge for safer handling and easier foiling, as well as a better fit. | |||
**Grinders – many types of grinders are available for quick and accurate trimming of cut pieces. | |||
*FOILING: Foil comes in assorted widths, thickness and backing colors such as silver, black, or copper backed. Selection depends on glass type and any effects you may be looking for. Peel back 2″-3″ of backing from the foil, hold glass with the edge toward you, and apply foil to glass so that it extends evenly over both sides of the glass. Crimp (fold) over edges making sure to fold corners neat and flat. Burnish foil using fid or similar tool. Press foil flat against glass on the outside edge first, then both sides of the glass. Don’t scrub as you may rip the foil. | |||
*SOLDERING: | |||
**If solder doesn’t flow smoothly apply more flux. | |||
**If seams bulge over the glass there’s too much solder. You may need to melt off the excess. | |||
**If solder spits or bubbles there’s too much flux, wipe some off. | |||
**Flat seams need more solder. | |||
**Don’t stay in the same spot too long or the solder will bleed through or the glass will crack. | |||
**Wipe your iron tip frequently on a wet sponge while you are soldering. | |||
**Re-tin your tips as needed using a sal-ammoniac block. | |||
*FINISHING: Apply a wax coating to help keep your piece from oxidizing. Hang your piece with a chain that will support its weight. | |||
=Helpful Videos= | =Helpful Videos= | ||
* | *[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HLN8fMfSpVU Stained Glass for Beginners - Step by Step] | ||
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JnrJIRCviQ Stained Glass Beginner Project] | |||
=Maintenance= | =Maintenance= | ||
| Line 26: | Line 49: | ||
Parts: | Parts: | ||
*SOLDERING: Solder is a mix of tin and lead in different proportions. Only use solid core types. | |||
**50/50 can be used for foil method and lamps. | |||
**60/40 best for either foil or lead. | |||
**63/37 can be used for decorative work. | |||
**Use lead free solder when projects will be handled–kaleidoscopes, jewelry boxes, or objects for young children. | |||
[[Category: Tool]] | [[Category: Tool]] | ||
[[Category: Safety Checkout]] | [[Category: Safety Checkout]] | ||
Latest revision as of 11:20, 19 December 2025

About our machine
Tools available:
- Glass grinder
- Glass cutting tool
- Bottle-cutting jigs
- Temperature-controlled Soldering iron
Guides and Manuals
Safety
- Safety Glasses/Goggles: Wear them when cutting, grinding, or soldering to protect from flying glass shards or hot solder spatter.
- Gloves: Use gloves (nitrile for chemicals, heat-resistant for hot work) to prevent cuts and chemical burns from flux/patina.
- Protective Clothing: Wear long sleeves, pants, and closed-toe shoes to cover skin from glass and heat.
- Face Shield: Recommended for extra protection against flux splatter.
Tips
- SCORE: A light continuous scratch on the glass surface, extending from one edge of the glass to the other edge. A good score should look like a hair on the glass; a string is too heavy. Also, a good score has no breaks or gaps in it. Heavy pressure is not required and in fact can cause a poor break of the glass.
- CUTTING: Hold the cutter as you would a pen or pencil. Don’t tilt from side to side, but keep the wheel perpendicular to the piece of glass. Drag your hand as you score to control the motion. Steering is from the elbow/shoulder, your wrist should remain motionless. Stand rather than sit while cutting. You can either push or pull the cutter. To cut straight lines pull; for shaped pieces push so that you can see where the pattern lines are located. Always score the glass on the shiniest or smoothest side. Make only one score at a time. Break the glass, then make the next score. Avoid running your score lines less than 1/2″ from the side of the glass. NEVER back up or re-score the same line.
- BREAKING:
- Two Fisted Grip – with hands in tight fists, place fingers together on bottom side of glass, with score line running between fingers. Place thumbs on top surface of glass, slightly apart, one on each side of the score. Press down with your thumbs, and up with your fingers to snap the glass along the score line.
- Running Pliers – have a curved jaw that allows for more control when making long or more difficult breaks. Line up score with indicator line on the upper jaw, placing pliers ¼” to ½” over the glass edge. Gently clamp down on the glass. Turn the set screw until you feel it just touch the glass, then back off the set screw slightly and squeeze.
- Breaker/Grozer Pliers – are used for removing pieces of glass too small for hands or running pliers. They have a curved lower jaw and a flat upper jaw, both with a serrated inner surface. Place the pliers approximately 1/16″ in from the glass, parallel to the score line, with the flat jaw on top. Use your other hand while applying the two fisted grip (described earlier) and bend pliers down and away from the score.
- Grozing – is the removal of flares, nibs and small pieces from the glass edge. Using one hand to hang onto the glass, roll the serrated surface of the Breaker/Grozer Pliers over the edge, removing unwanted glass. Grozing allows you to clean the glass edge for safer handling and easier foiling, as well as a better fit.
- Grinders – many types of grinders are available for quick and accurate trimming of cut pieces.
- FOILING: Foil comes in assorted widths, thickness and backing colors such as silver, black, or copper backed. Selection depends on glass type and any effects you may be looking for. Peel back 2″-3″ of backing from the foil, hold glass with the edge toward you, and apply foil to glass so that it extends evenly over both sides of the glass. Crimp (fold) over edges making sure to fold corners neat and flat. Burnish foil using fid or similar tool. Press foil flat against glass on the outside edge first, then both sides of the glass. Don’t scrub as you may rip the foil.
- SOLDERING:
- If solder doesn’t flow smoothly apply more flux.
- If seams bulge over the glass there’s too much solder. You may need to melt off the excess.
- If solder spits or bubbles there’s too much flux, wipe some off.
- Flat seams need more solder.
- Don’t stay in the same spot too long or the solder will bleed through or the glass will crack.
- Wipe your iron tip frequently on a wet sponge while you are soldering.
- Re-tin your tips as needed using a sal-ammoniac block.
- FINISHING: Apply a wax coating to help keep your piece from oxidizing. Hang your piece with a chain that will support its weight.
Helpful Videos
Maintenance
Parts:
- SOLDERING: Solder is a mix of tin and lead in different proportions. Only use solid core types.
- 50/50 can be used for foil method and lamps.
- 60/40 best for either foil or lead.
- 63/37 can be used for decorative work.
- Use lead free solder when projects will be handled–kaleidoscopes, jewelry boxes, or objects for young children.