Difference between revisions of "Laser Cutter"

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[[File:DTCLaser.jpg|400px|thumb|Laser Cutter]]
[[File:DTCLaser.png|400px|thumb|Laser Cutter]]


=About our Machine=
=About our Machine=
[ Manual]
[https://docs.google.com/document/d/172fcF2QL-Nx5IyDXTHjwlRbI9YxtvXjlyGEJYQJKui8/edit?usp=sharing Laser Cutter Class syllabus and guide]
'''Machine Info'''
'''Machine Info'''
*Frame:  
*Manufacturer: DTC For the Future
*Cutting dimensions:  
*Model: DBL-6090
*Max stock height allowance:  
*[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1UOlYvfPJSXS3FEopwaFPE_4vo_Pn072NFG_7avTyNk0/edit?usp=sharing Manual for the machine]
*Laser focal distance (from lens bracket):
*Cutting dimensions: 60cm by 90cm (23.6" by 35.4")
*Controller: RUIDA Controller
*Resolution: 2500 DPI
*Laser: 100W CO2
*Max stock height allowance: Over 6"
*Water Chiller
*Controller: RUIDA Controller RDC6445
*Air compressor
*Laser tube: 100W CO2 Reci W2 Product No. 780442
*Exhaust: Fume hood attached via 6" hose
*Water Chiller: S&A Cw5200 1400W
*Air compressor: Resun ACO-004. 58W, Airflow: 0.075 m3/min
*Exhaust: 350W, Airflow: 12 m3/min
*Purchased through funds raised by members and the public in 2022
*Purchased through funds raised by members and the public in 2022
*'''This tool requires a safety checkout or training before you can use it'''


=How to use=
=Running the Laser Cutter (LightBurn)=
'''Before using the laser cutter, you must first get training through an intro class or get signed off on it by the manager'''
These are instructions for how to operate our Laser Cutter using the LightBurn interface. LightBurn is both a design program as well as a laser control program. You can use it to create or import drawings, and in the same screen determine how the laser will burn/etch/cut the features on the screen.


The following is a handy reference for the steps to go from a design to the GCode that will run on the laser cutter.
Updated: 11/16/2022 by Alex N


==Running the Laser Cutter (LightBurn)==
https://www.portcitymakerspace.com/wiki/index.php?title=Laser_Cutter


These are instructions for how to operate our Laser Cutter using the LightBurn interface. LightBurn is both a design program as well as a laser control program. You can use it to create or import drawings, and in the same screen determine how the laser will burn/etch/cut the features on the screen.
'''Note to users of our old laser cutter:'''
'''When using this new laser, keep in mind that 50% Power will be more than twice as powerful as the old one!''' If you are using old files or sample cards as reference, make sure to account for this difference.


Updated: 8/24/2022 by Alex N
Here are a few differences to keep in mind between our old machine and the new one:
{| class="wikitable" style="text-align: center;"
|-
! Item !! Old Laser !! New Laser
|-
| Power || 40W|| 100W
|-
| Max Speed|| 40mm/s|| 600mm/s
|-
| Max Material Height|| 34mm (1.34") || Over 250mm (10")
|}


===Instructions for running the Laser Cutter:===
#'''Reserve time on the machine through the website''' - [https://www.portcitymakerspace.com/reserve-time/ Reserve Time page]
##Make sure it is available before you start using it by checking that page.
##Make sure to reserve it '''every''' time you use it, regardless of whether it is open. This helps other members know when it is occupied and can plan around it.
#'''Prepare a file in Lightburn'''
##'''Open the LightBurn program''' (dragon icon).
##'''Load drawing file or create drawing in the program.''' Ensure it is aligned as you need it. Common practice is to align drawings to the back-right or upper-right corner.
##'''Set your burn settings in the "Cuts" tab.''' Use some of the existing test cards for reference or make your own if your material is unique.
###Make sure to set your Maximum and Minimum Power! Minimum power applies with curves and corners, so it is important to make sure Minimum is set equal or close to Maximum in order to cut all the way through.
#'''Start-up Procedure:'''
#'''Start-up Procedure:'''
##'''Turn on the power strip.''' Located behind the laser cutter. This should turn on the Air Compressor, Water Pump, and Power Supply for the laser.
##'''Turn on the power strip.''' Located behind the laser cutter. This should turn on the Air Compressor, Exhaust Fan, Water Chiller, and Power Supply for the laser.
##'''Turn on the Fume Hood/Ventilation.''' The power switch/knob is on the fume hood.
##'''Release the red E-stop button''' by rotating it clockwise a 1/4 turn. This turns on the laser controller.
##'''Grab the key from its hiding place and insert into the lockswitch, turn to the right.'''
#Running a job
##'''Open the LightBurn program''' (dragon icon).
##'''Open the lid and place your material on the bed.''' Make sure it is well-aligned for your job.
##'''Load drawing file or create drawing in the program.''' Ensure it is aligned as you need it. Common practice is to align drawings to the bottom left corner.
##'''Position the material under the red probe''' either by moving the material or moving the laser with the control panel
##'''Go to the "Console" tab and hit the "HomeXY" button.'''  
###If there is not enough space for the material under the probe, use the Z down button to lower the table until your material fits.
##*Note: if you hit one of the regular "home" buttons, the machine will lock up. If this happens, you can disconnect and reconnect the program by clicking on "COM3" towards the bottom of the screen, changing it to "COM1", then changing it back to "COM3".
##'''Press the Focus button''' to run the auto-focus feature.  
#'''Setting up a cut:'''
###'''Press the red Stop button on the control panel if it crashes.''' This can happen if the probe is not above your material and it slips into the gaps in the honeycomb bed.
##'''Place your material on the bed.''' Make sure it is well-aligned and parallel to the sides of the machine. Use a spacer tool to align to bottom left corner of cutting region if desired.
##'''Use the Frame button''' to have the machine trace out the job area. It will not fire the laser while it is doing this.
##'''Use the Laser Focus Ruler to set the height of the bed.''' Raise/lower the bed using the adjustment wheel underneath.
##'''Retrieve the key''' from its hiding place and '''turn the keyswitch on''' (clockwise). This will allow the laser to fire.
##'''Set your burn settings in the "Cuts" tab.''' Use some of the existing test burns for reference or make your own if your material is unique. Note: the settings for each color are saved from the last time the program was used, so double-check your settings to make sure they are what you want!
##'''Close the lid'''
##'''Click "Start" and watch it go!''' It is safe to watch, the IR light from the laser is absorbed by the window. The regular light can be intense when doing a cutting operation however, so avoid staring at the bright light.
##'''Press the Start button''' in Lightburn and watch it go.
#'''While it is running:'''
##It is safe to watch through the window, the IR light from the laser is absorbed by the polycarbonate. The regular light can be intense when doing a cutting operation however, so avoid staring at the bright light.
#When a job is done
##The laser will stop moving. The control panel will display "Finished" below the job display
##Open the lid and remove your material. If the job involved cutting through, check the bottom compartment under they honeycomb for small pieces that fell through and clean them up.
#'''While a job is running:'''
##'''Never leave the laser unattended! Materials can catch fire!'''
##'''Never leave the laser unattended! Materials can catch fire!'''
##'''If there is a problem, hit the big red emergency stop button.''' Located on the top of the laser cutter. Please note that this cuts the power, but does not tell the software to stop the laser. To turn it off in the software, you can hit one of the "Test Fire" buttons in the "Console" tab.
##'''If there is a problem, hit the big red emergency stop button.''' Located on the front of the laser cutter.
##'''In the event of a fire''', use the the fire blanket or the white dry-type fire extinguisher located near the machine.
##'''In the event of a fire''', use the the fire blanket or the white dry-type fire extinguisher located near the machine.
##'''NEVER open the lid while the laser is on!'''
##'''NEVER open the lid while the laser is on!'''
#'''When done using the machine:'''
#'''When done using the machine:'''
##'''Turn off the power strip.'''
##'''Turn off the power strip.'''
##'''Turn the keyswitch off and put key back.'''
##'''Turn the keyswitch off (counter-clockwise) and put key back.'''
##'''Clean underneath the aluminum honeycomb bed.''' Lift the aluminum honeycomb out and clean up any small pieces and residue left behind. (Plywood tends to leave a lot of residue underneath that can be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol).
##'''Clean underneath the aluminum honeycomb bed.'''


''Note: old instructions on using VCarve and Inkscape to produce GCode can be found [https://www.portcitymakerspace.com/wiki/index.php?title=Talk:Laser_Cutter here in the Discussion page] on the wiki.''
=Troubleshooting=
 
{| class="wikitable"
===Troubleshooting===
|The laser isn’t firing
'''Software:'''
|Make sure the keyswitch is turned to the correct position. Should be rotated clockwise.
* Units for drawing: when you hit play/start, if your units are in inches there is a glitch that makes the machine run incredibly slow. Make sure it is in MM units before starting.
Make sure in Lightburn that the appropriate cut lines have the “output” slider in the on position (will show green).
* Fill and Line mode: separate speeds for each operation found in different places, default for line is usually way too high
|-
* Homing: normal home button will freeze the machine, which is why there is a separate HomeXY button
|This fill is taking FOREVER, why?
* Stopping: when you hit the stop button, there is a delay before it actually stops. If you need it to stop burning right away, use the small Laser On/Off button on the machine to disable the beam.
|There are different fill settings you can use. Double-click on the color you are using for a fill, and you will be able to view the settings. “Fill all shapes at once” is the slowest setting, as it goes line-by-line across the entire surface. “Fill shapes individually” will be faster and can end up cleaner.
 
|-
'''Hardware/Physical:'''
|My wood keeps getting charred
* E-Stop: this will cut power to the motors and laser beam, but does not tell the software to stop. If you release the E-stop without telling the program to stop, it will continue going wherever it thinks it should be
|Look at your settings and see if you can increase the speed of the cut while decreasing the power.  
* Laser On/Off button: a handy button to disable the beam but let the motors move. Helpful for doing a test run to make sure it goes where you expect. Don't forget to  check it before running your program
|-
* Resetting1: if the machine is unresponsive or you hit the regular Home button by accident, you can quickly reset the connection to the machine on the bottom of the screen where it says "COM3". Click and switch this to COM1 or another option, then switch back to COM3. Now hit the HomeXY button and see if it responds.
|My cut is not going through the entire surface
* Resetting2: if the machine is still unresponsive and needs to be reset, you have to shut down the LightBurn program, then unplug the USB cord to the machine. Plug the USB cord back in, and re-open LightBurn.
|Increase your power and decrease your speed
 
|-
'''Other potential issues:'''
|The laser cut all the way through my piece when I wanted to engrave it
* Smoke accumulating in machine: stop immediately and determine what is wrong. Likely cause-exhaust hood is not on
|Lower the power setting on the cut
* Laser weak - lens or mirrors may need cleaning, or the tube may be getting worn out
You can try increasing speed but lowering the power should help the most.
 
|-
 
|This acrylic is chipped on the underside
 
|?
 
|-
===LightBurn Video Guides:===
|I don’t know what settings to use
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1UygQiNqSQA Lesson #1 : First Time User]
|Use an existing sample card that is similar to the material you are using.
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzFsrUwONbw Lesson 2: User Interface]
If a sample doesn’t exist, you can use a built-in “Material Test” in LightBurn in the Laser Tools menu at the top.
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nybhYtjElQU Lesson 3: Cut Settings]
Engraved fills will need slightly less power than engraved lines
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=51cXqmNHgeI Lesson 4: Boolean Operations]
Small engraved fills will need slightly more power than large engraved fills
 
|}
'''[https://github.com/LightBurnSoftware/Documentation/blob/master/README.md Official LightBurn documentation]'''


===Highlights from LightBurn's documentation:===
#[https://github.com/LightBurnSoftware/Documentation/blob/master/Toolbars.md Toolbars]
#[https://github.com/LightBurnSoftware/Documentation/blob/master/HotKeys.md General Usage Hotkeys]
#[https://github.com/LightBurnSoftware/Documentation/blob/master/CreatingNewVectors.md Creating Vectors]
#[https://github.com/LightBurnSoftware/Documentation/blob/master/EngravingImages.md Engraving Images]
#[https://github.com/LightBurnSoftware/Documentation/blob/master/ImportingExternalVectors.md Importing External Vectors]


=Maintenance=
*Vacuum the inside
**The bed of the machine should be vacuum out regularly after cutting to clean up any small pieces that fall into the honeycomb.
*Cleaning the lens and mirrors
**'''Ask someone to show you how to clean these before attempting yourself!'''
**A dirty lens can cause burnt gunk to build up and potentially crack the lens.
**Here is a video from the ATX Hackerspace on cleaning their lens - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YiN3J2WShQY How to Clean Laser Optics]
*Aligning the mirrors
**This should be checked once or twice a year. A sign of misaligned mirrors is typically the laser not burning effectively when it gets farther from the top left corner.
**[https://k40.se/lens-mirrors/k40-mirror-alignment-and-leveling-old-guide/ A guide on aligning the mirrors can be found here.]


==Parts==
=Safe and Unsafe Materials=
*Laser Tube Replacement details
[https://web.archive.org/web/20221206004126/http://wiki.atxhs.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials Referenced from ATX Hackerspace's wiki]
*Lens
**
*Mirrors


=Laser Cutter Materials (from ATX Hackerspace)=
[http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials Original page]
There are a wide range of materials that our Laser Cutter can cut, etch or mark - but some simply don't work (eg metals) and some are extremely hazardous to either humans or the machine itself (eg PVC and Vinyl).  It is therefore imperative that you check these lists before attempting to cut materials that you have not worked with before.
There are a wide range of materials that our Laser Cutter can cut, etch or mark - but some simply don't work (eg metals) and some are extremely hazardous to either humans or the machine itself (eg PVC and Vinyl).  It is therefore imperative that you check these lists before attempting to cut materials that you have not worked with before.


It is not always obvious which materials will work - for example: Polycarbonate/Lexan produces flames and lethal chlorine gas which will rapidly corrode this normally $10,000 machine into uselessness '''and''' which is extremely hazardous to the health of people nearby.  Yet Acrylic - which looks, smells, feels and tastes just like Lexan - cuts smoothly and cleanly and is one of the best materials to use with the laser!  So check and double-check what you're cutting.
It is not always obvious which materials will work - for example: Polycarbonate/Lexan produces flames and lethal chlorine gas which will rapidly corrode this normally $10,000 machine into uselessness '''and''' which is extremely hazardous to the health of people nearby.  Yet Acrylic - which looks, smells, feels and tastes just like Lexan - cuts smoothly and cleanly and is one of the best materials to use with the laser!  So check and double-check what you're cutting.


'''WARNING''': Because many plastics are dangerous to cut, it is important to know what kind you are planning to use. Make has a How-To for identifying unknown plastics with [http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2011/09/identifying-unknown-plastics.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+makezineonline+%28MAKE%29&utm_content=Google+Reader a simple process].




== NEVER CUT THESE MATERIALS  ==
{| class="wikitable"
 
|style="background-color:#ff8888; text-align: center;" | '''UNSAFE'''
'''WARNING''': Because many plastics are dangerous to cut, it is important to know what kind you are planning to use. Make has a How-To for identifying unknown plastics with [http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2011/09/identifying-unknown-plastics.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+makezineonline+%28MAKE%29&utm_content=Google+Reader a simple process].
|
 
* PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride)/vinyl/pleather/artificial leather
{| cellspacing="0" cellpadding="5" border="1" align="center"
**Releases chlorine gas when burned - dangerous for humans and damages the machine
* Thick ( >1mm ) Polycarbonate/Lexan
* ABS
* HDPE/milk bottle plastic
* PolyStyrene Foam
* PolyPropylene Foam
* Epoxy
* Fiberglass
* Coated Carbon Fiber
* Any foodstuff ( such as meat, seaweed 'nori' sheets, bread, tortillas... )
|-
|-
! Material
|style="background-color:#bbffbb; text-align: center;" | '''Safe to cut and etch'''
! DANGER!
|
! Cause/Consequence
* Many woods
* Plywood/Composite woods
* MDF/Engineered woods
* Paper, card stock
* Cardboard, carton
* Cork
* Acrylic/Lucite/Plexiglas/PMMA
* Thin Polycarbonate Sheeting (<1mm)
* Delrin (POM)
* Kapton tape (Polyimide)
* Mylar
* Solid Styrene
* Depron foam
* Gator foam
* Cloth/felt/hemp/cotton
* Leather/Suede
* Magnetic Sheet
* NON-CHLORINE-containing rubber
* Teflon (PTFE)
* Carbon fiber mats/weave that has not had epoxy applied
* Coroplast ('corrugated plastic')
|-
|-
| PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride)/vinyl/pleather/artificial leather
|style="background-color:#ddffdd; text-align: center;" | '''Safe to etch'''
| Emits chlorine gas when cut!
|
| Don't ever cut this material as it will ruin the optics, cause the metal of the machine to corrode, and ruin the motion control system.
* Glass
|-
* Ceramic tile
| Thick ( >1mm ) Polycarbonate/Lexan
* Anodized aluminum
| Cuts very poorly, discolors, catches fire
* Painted/coated metals
| Polycarbonate is often found as flat, sheet material. The window of the laser cutter is made of Polycarbonate because ''polycarbonate strongly absorbs infrared radiation!'' This is the frequency of light the laser cutter uses to cut materials, so it is very ineffective at cutting polycarbonate. Polycarbonate is a poor choice for laser cutting.
* Stone, Marble, Granite, Soapstone, Onyx.
|-
| ABS
| Melts / Cyanide
| ABS does not cut well in a laser cutter. It tends to melt rather than vaporize, and has a higher chance of catching on fire and leaving behind melted gooey deposits on the vector cutting grid. It also does not engrave well (again, tends to melt).  Also, cutting ABS plastic emits hydrogen cyanide, which is unsafe at any concentration.
|-
| HDPE/milk bottle plastic
| Catches fire and melts
| It melts. It gets gooey. Don't use it.
|-
| PolyStyrene Foam
| Catches fire
| It catches fire, it melts, and only thin pieces cut. This is the #1 material that causes laser fires!!!
|-
| PolyPropylene Foam
| Catches fire
| Like PolyStyrene, it melts, catches fire, and the melted drops continue to burn and turn into rock-hard drips and pebbles.
|-
| Epoxy
| burn / smoke
| Epoxy is an aliphatic resin, strongly cross-linked carbon chains.  A CO2 laser can't cut it, and the resulting burned mess creates toxic fumes ( like cyanide! ).  Items coated in Epoxy, or cast Epoxy resins must not be used in the laser cutter. ( see Fiberglass )
|-
| Fiberglass
| Emits fumes
| It's a mix of two materials that cant' be cut. Glass (etch, no cut) and epoxy resin (fumes)
|-
| Coated Carbon Fiber
| Emits noxious fumes
| A mix of two materials. Thin carbon fiber mat can be cut, with some fraying - but not when coated.
|-
| Any foodstuff ( such as meat, seaweed 'nori' sheets, bread, tortillas... )
| The laser is not designed to cut food, and people cut things that create poisonous/noxious substances such as wood smoke and acrylic smoke.
| If you want to cut foodstuffs, consider sponsoring a food-only laser cutter for the space that is kept as clean as a commercial kitchen would require.
|}
|}


== Safe Materials  ==
=Using the Rotary Add-On=
'''2023-03-11: THIS IS A DRAFT OF THE PROCESS TO USE THE ROTARY ADD-ON''' - Alex


The laser can cut or etch. The materials that the laser can cut materials like wood, paper, cork, and some kinds of plastics. Etching can be done on almost anything, wood, cardboard, aluminum, stainless steel, plastic, marble, stone, tile, and glass.  
The rotary add-on allows the user to engrave or cut cylindrical or round objects. There is a different setup involved that has to be done to get it ready, and it has to be un-done before you leave.


=== Cutting  ===
#Rotary Setup
##Turn on machine
##Lower Z-Table all the way down
##Remove honeycomb
##Place Rotary Add-On on table so it is parallel to the table
##Turn off machine
##Unplug Y-axis, plug in Rotary Add-On
##Turn machine back on, allow it to finish moving and calibrating
##Move the Y-axis by hand so the beam will be centered on the center axis of rotary add-on
##Ensure the head of the laser will not collide with the rotary add-on or material
#Using the Rotary
##Mount the material in the chuck (may need to swap out jaws depending on size or shape)
##If needed, protect your material from the bare metal jaws with foam, rubber, electrical tape.
##Slide the tail support up to the base of the material if needed to support (longer objects will definitely need it)
##Place design in lightburn where the rotary add-on is
##Measure the diameter of your piece
##-TODO: INSERT MATH TO FIGURE OUT DESIGN SCALE BASED ON DIAMETER/CIRCUMFERENCE
#Removing the Rotary
##Turn off the machine
##Remove material from the chuck
##Unplug the rotary
##Plug Y-axis back in
##Remove rotary add-on from machine
##Replace honeycomb bed
##Turn machine back on and test that it is operating normally


{| cellspacing="0" cellpadding="5" border="1" align="center"
=FAQs=
|-
{| class="wikitable"
! Material
|How do I get certified to use the laser cutter?
! Max thickness
|Same as any other power tool in the shop! If you haven't used this kind of machine before, take our Intro class on the relevant topic. If you have used a machine like this, then read up on this documentation and schedule a Safety Checkout with the General Manager or Shop Manager for that area.
! Notes
! WARNINGS!
|-
| Many woods
| 1/4"
| Avoid oily/resinous woods
| Be very careful about cutting oily woods, or very resinous woods as they also may catch fire.
|-
| Plywood/Composite woods
| 1/4"  
| These contain glue, and may not laser cut as well as solid wood.
|
|-
| MDF/Engineered woods
| 1/4"  
| These are okay to use but may experience a higher amount of charring when cut.
|
|-
| Paper, card stock
| thin
| Cuts very well on the laser cutter, and also very quickly.
|  
|-
| Cardboard, carton
| thicker
| Cuts well but may catch fire.
| Watch for fire.
|-
| Cork
| 1/4"
| Cuts nicely, but the quality of the cut depends on the thickness and quality of the cork. Engineered cork has a lot of glue in it, and may not cut as well.
| Avoid thicker cork.
|-
| Acrylic/Lucite/Plexiglas/PMMA
| 1/2"
| Cuts extremely well leaving a beautifully polished edge.
|
|-
| Thin Polycarbonate Sheeting (<1mm)
| <1mm
| Very thin polycarbonate can be cut, but tends to discolor badly.  Extremely thin sheets (0.5mm and less) may cut with yellowed/discolored edges.  Polycarbonate absorbs IR strongly, and is a poor material to use in the laser cutter.
| Watch for smoking/burning
|-
| Delrin (POM)
| thin
| Delrin comes in a number of shore strengths (hardness) and the harder Delrin tends to work better. Great for gears!
|
|-
| Kapton tape (Polyimide)
| 1/16"
| Works well, in thin sheets and strips like tape.
|
|-
|-
| Mylar
|How do I clean the laser cutter after I use it?
| 1/16"
|Lift the aluminum honeycomb out and sweep up small pieces with the small dustbin on the pegboard in the Electronics Lab. Clean any residue by liberally applying isopropyl alcohol to a paper towel and scrubbing the residue - it should come off fairly easily. Plywood in particular tends to leave a lot of residue.  
| Works well if it's thin. Thick mylar has a tendency to warp, bubble, and curl
| Gold coated mylar will not work.
|-
|-
| Solid Styrene
|What do I do with my scrap materials?
| 1/16"
|Usable pieces (rectangular preferred, plenty of usable space) can be added to the wooden materials container in the Electronics Lab.
| Smokes a lot when cut, but can be cut.
Wood that is completely used can be deposited in the scrap wood bin in the wood shop.
| Keep it thin.
Any other materials get disposed of in the trash.
|-
| Depron foam
| 1/4"
| Used a lot for hobby, RC aircraft, architectural models, and toys. 1/4" cuts nicely, with a smooth edge.
| Must be constantly monitored.
|-
| Gator foam
|
| Foam core gets burned and eaten away compared to the top and bottom hard paper shell.
| Not a fantastic thing to cut, but it can be cut if watched.
|-
| Cloth/felt/hemp/cotton
|
| They all cut well. Our lasers can be used in lace-making.  
| Not plastic coated or impregnated cloth!
|-
| Leather/Suede
| 1/8"
| Leather is very hard to cut, but can be if it's thinner than a belt (call it 1/8"). Our "Advanced" laser training class covers this.
| Real leather only! '''Not''' 'pleather' or other imitations!
|-
| Magnetic Sheet
|
| Cuts beautifully
|
|-
| NON-CHLORINE-containing rubber
|
| Fine for cutting.
| Beware chlorine-containing rubber!
|-
| Teflon (PTFE)
| thin
| Cuts OK in thin sheets.  See https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/teflon ; the issues listed in https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polymer_fume_fever. Our laser cutter has ventilation but does not seem to exhaust everything so be extremely careful.
|
|-
| Carbon fiber mats/weave<br>that has '''not''' had epoxy applied
|
| Can be cut, very slowly.
| You must not cut carbon fiber that has been coated!!
|-
| Coroplast ('corrugated plastic')
| 1/4"
| Difficult because of the vertical strips. Three passes at 80% power, 7% speed, and it will be slightly connected still at the bottom from the vertical strips.
|
|}
|}


=== Etching  ===


All the above "cuttable" materials can be etched, in some cases very deeply.


In addition, you can etch:  
=Maintenance=
*Vacuum the inside
**The bed of the machine should be vacuum out regularly after cutting to clean up any small pieces that fall into the honeycomb.
*Cleaning the lens and mirrors
**'''Ask someone to show you how to clean these before attempting yourself!'''
**A dirty lens can cause burnt gunk to build up and potentially crack the lens.
**Here is a video from the ATX Hackerspace on cleaning their lens - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YiN3J2WShQY How to Clean Laser Optics]
*Aligning the mirrors
**This should be checked once or twice a year. A sign of misaligned mirrors is typically the laser not burning effectively when it gets farther from the top left corner.
**[https://k40.se/lens-mirrors/k40-mirror-alignment-and-leveling-old-guide/ A guide on aligning the mirrors can be found here.]


{| cellspacing="0" cellpadding="5" border="1"
Other Maintenance Items:
|-
*[https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLW4aVhZUHNlW3FLgfivcZVMjZksYKVPCS Omtechlaser HowTo playlist on youtube] - has many videos on how to do common maintenance tasks on a similar style CO2 laser cutter.
! Material
! Notes
! WARNINGS!
|-
| Glass
| Green seems to work best...looks sandblasted.
| Only FLAT GLASS can be engraved in our cutter. No round or cylindrical items.
|-
| Ceramic tile
|
|
|-
| Anodized aluminum
| Vaporizes the anodization away.
|
|-
| Painted/coated metals
| Vaporizes the paint away.
|
|-
| Stone, Marble, Granite, Soapstone, Onyx.
| Gets a white "textured" look when etched.  
| 100% power, 50% speed or less works well for etching.
|}




==Parts==
*Laser Tube: 100W CO2 Reci W2 Product No. 780442
*Lens
*Mirrors: 25mm Diameter, Molybdenum coated.


=External Resources=
=External Resources=
==External Guides==
===LightBurn Video Guides:===
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BkNeVjbZncc Lesson 1: First Time User]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzFsrUwONbw Lesson 2: User Interface]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nybhYtjElQU Lesson 3: Cut Settings]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=51cXqmNHgeI Lesson 4: Boolean Operations]
'''[https://github.com/LightBurnSoftware/Documentation/blob/master/README.md Official LightBurn documentation]'''
===Highlights from LightBurn's documentation:===
#[https://github.com/LightBurnSoftware/Documentation/blob/master/Toolbars.md Toolbars]
#[https://github.com/LightBurnSoftware/Documentation/blob/master/HotKeys.md General Usage Hotkeys]
#[https://github.com/LightBurnSoftware/Documentation/blob/master/CreatingNewVectors.md Creating Vectors]
#[https://github.com/LightBurnSoftware/Documentation/blob/master/EngravingImages.md Engraving Images]
#[https://github.com/LightBurnSoftware/Documentation/blob/master/ImportingExternalVectors.md Importing External Vectors]


==Where to Find Materials==
==Where to Find Materials==
*[https://www.inventables.com/categories/materials/acrylic Inventables] has acrylic sheet in many colors.
*The scrap bin by the laser cutter has plywood and acrylic
*[https://www.inventables.com/categories/materials/acrylic Inventables] has acrylic sheet in many colors
*[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MAT50B6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_90LmDbJW47EMG Laserable Rubber] on Amazon
*[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MAT50B6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_90LmDbJW47EMG Laserable Rubber] on Amazon
*Woodcraft in Newington - thin plywood of various sizes
*[https://woodcraft.com/ Woodcraft] in Newington - thin plywood of various sizes
*HomeDepot or Lowes - plywood, acrylic, and various other materials
*[https://www.homedepot.com/ HomeDepot] or [https://www.lowes.com Lowes] - plywood, acrylic, and various other materials
*JoAnn Fabrics in Newington- fabrics, acrylic, plywood, and various other materials
*[https://www.joann.com/ JoAnn Fabrics] in Newington- fabrics, acrylic, plywood, and various other materials
 


==Shape Generators==
==Shape Generators==
Line 345: Line 268:
*[https://polygonia.design/ Polygonia Design Suite] - Pattern generator
*[https://polygonia.design/ Polygonia Design Suite] - Pattern generator
*[https://clementzheng.github.io/joinery/help/help.html Joinery] - a large variety of joinery options for generating parametric joints for laser cutting (or Cricut). Takes an SVG in, pops an SVG out. It is also possible to save profiles.
*[https://clementzheng.github.io/joinery/help/help.html Joinery] - a large variety of joinery options for generating parametric joints for laser cutting (or Cricut). Takes an SVG in, pops an SVG out. It is also possible to save profiles.




Latest revision as of 10:49, 27 January 2025

Laser Cutter

About our Machine

Machine Info

  • Manufacturer: DTC For the Future
  • Model: DBL-6090
  • Manual for the machine
  • Cutting dimensions: 60cm by 90cm (23.6" by 35.4")
  • Resolution: 2500 DPI
  • Max stock height allowance: Over 6"
  • Controller: RUIDA Controller RDC6445
  • Laser tube: 100W CO2 Reci W2 Product No. 780442
  • Water Chiller: S&A Cw5200 1400W
  • Air compressor: Resun ACO-004. 58W, Airflow: 0.075 m3/min
  • Exhaust: 350W, Airflow: 12 m3/min
  • Purchased through funds raised by members and the public in 2022
  • This tool requires a safety checkout or training before you can use it

Running the Laser Cutter (LightBurn)

These are instructions for how to operate our Laser Cutter using the LightBurn interface. LightBurn is both a design program as well as a laser control program. You can use it to create or import drawings, and in the same screen determine how the laser will burn/etch/cut the features on the screen.

Updated: 11/16/2022 by Alex N


Note to users of our old laser cutter: When using this new laser, keep in mind that 50% Power will be more than twice as powerful as the old one! If you are using old files or sample cards as reference, make sure to account for this difference.

Here are a few differences to keep in mind between our old machine and the new one:

Item Old Laser New Laser
Power 40W 100W
Max Speed 40mm/s 600mm/s
Max Material Height 34mm (1.34") Over 250mm (10")
  1. Reserve time on the machine through the website - Reserve Time page
    1. Make sure it is available before you start using it by checking that page.
    2. Make sure to reserve it every time you use it, regardless of whether it is open. This helps other members know when it is occupied and can plan around it.
  2. Prepare a file in Lightburn
    1. Open the LightBurn program (dragon icon).
    2. Load drawing file or create drawing in the program. Ensure it is aligned as you need it. Common practice is to align drawings to the back-right or upper-right corner.
    3. Set your burn settings in the "Cuts" tab. Use some of the existing test cards for reference or make your own if your material is unique.
      1. Make sure to set your Maximum and Minimum Power! Minimum power applies with curves and corners, so it is important to make sure Minimum is set equal or close to Maximum in order to cut all the way through.
  3. Start-up Procedure:
    1. Turn on the power strip. Located behind the laser cutter. This should turn on the Air Compressor, Exhaust Fan, Water Chiller, and Power Supply for the laser.
    2. Release the red E-stop button by rotating it clockwise a 1/4 turn. This turns on the laser controller.
  4. Running a job
    1. Open the lid and place your material on the bed. Make sure it is well-aligned for your job.
    2. Position the material under the red probe either by moving the material or moving the laser with the control panel
      1. If there is not enough space for the material under the probe, use the Z down button to lower the table until your material fits.
    3. Press the Focus button to run the auto-focus feature.
      1. Press the red Stop button on the control panel if it crashes. This can happen if the probe is not above your material and it slips into the gaps in the honeycomb bed.
    4. Use the Frame button to have the machine trace out the job area. It will not fire the laser while it is doing this.
    5. Retrieve the key from its hiding place and turn the keyswitch on (clockwise). This will allow the laser to fire.
    6. Close the lid
    7. Press the Start button in Lightburn and watch it go.
    8. It is safe to watch through the window, the IR light from the laser is absorbed by the polycarbonate. The regular light can be intense when doing a cutting operation however, so avoid staring at the bright light.
  5. When a job is done
    1. The laser will stop moving. The control panel will display "Finished" below the job display
    2. Open the lid and remove your material. If the job involved cutting through, check the bottom compartment under they honeycomb for small pieces that fell through and clean them up.
  6. While a job is running:
    1. Never leave the laser unattended! Materials can catch fire!
    2. If there is a problem, hit the big red emergency stop button. Located on the front of the laser cutter.
    3. In the event of a fire, use the the fire blanket or the white dry-type fire extinguisher located near the machine.
    4. NEVER open the lid while the laser is on!
  7. When done using the machine:
    1. Turn off the power strip.
    2. Turn the keyswitch off (counter-clockwise) and put key back.
    3. Clean underneath the aluminum honeycomb bed.

Troubleshooting

The laser isn’t firing Make sure the keyswitch is turned to the correct position. Should be rotated clockwise.

Make sure in Lightburn that the appropriate cut lines have the “output” slider in the on position (will show green).

This fill is taking FOREVER, why? There are different fill settings you can use. Double-click on the color you are using for a fill, and you will be able to view the settings. “Fill all shapes at once” is the slowest setting, as it goes line-by-line across the entire surface. “Fill shapes individually” will be faster and can end up cleaner.
My wood keeps getting charred Look at your settings and see if you can increase the speed of the cut while decreasing the power.
My cut is not going through the entire surface Increase your power and decrease your speed
The laser cut all the way through my piece when I wanted to engrave it Lower the power setting on the cut

You can try increasing speed but lowering the power should help the most.

This acrylic is chipped on the underside ?
I don’t know what settings to use Use an existing sample card that is similar to the material you are using.

If a sample doesn’t exist, you can use a built-in “Material Test” in LightBurn in the Laser Tools menu at the top. Engraved fills will need slightly less power than engraved lines Small engraved fills will need slightly more power than large engraved fills


Safe and Unsafe Materials

Referenced from ATX Hackerspace's wiki

There are a wide range of materials that our Laser Cutter can cut, etch or mark - but some simply don't work (eg metals) and some are extremely hazardous to either humans or the machine itself (eg PVC and Vinyl). It is therefore imperative that you check these lists before attempting to cut materials that you have not worked with before.

It is not always obvious which materials will work - for example: Polycarbonate/Lexan produces flames and lethal chlorine gas which will rapidly corrode this normally $10,000 machine into uselessness and which is extremely hazardous to the health of people nearby. Yet Acrylic - which looks, smells, feels and tastes just like Lexan - cuts smoothly and cleanly and is one of the best materials to use with the laser! So check and double-check what you're cutting.

WARNING: Because many plastics are dangerous to cut, it is important to know what kind you are planning to use. Make has a How-To for identifying unknown plastics with a simple process.


UNSAFE
  • PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride)/vinyl/pleather/artificial leather
    • Releases chlorine gas when burned - dangerous for humans and damages the machine
  • Thick ( >1mm ) Polycarbonate/Lexan
  • ABS
  • HDPE/milk bottle plastic
  • PolyStyrene Foam
  • PolyPropylene Foam
  • Epoxy
  • Fiberglass
  • Coated Carbon Fiber
  • Any foodstuff ( such as meat, seaweed 'nori' sheets, bread, tortillas... )
Safe to cut and etch
  • Many woods
  • Plywood/Composite woods
  • MDF/Engineered woods
  • Paper, card stock
  • Cardboard, carton
  • Cork
  • Acrylic/Lucite/Plexiglas/PMMA
  • Thin Polycarbonate Sheeting (<1mm)
  • Delrin (POM)
  • Kapton tape (Polyimide)
  • Mylar
  • Solid Styrene
  • Depron foam
  • Gator foam
  • Cloth/felt/hemp/cotton
  • Leather/Suede
  • Magnetic Sheet
  • NON-CHLORINE-containing rubber
  • Teflon (PTFE)
  • Carbon fiber mats/weave that has not had epoxy applied
  • Coroplast ('corrugated plastic')
Safe to etch
  • Glass
  • Ceramic tile
  • Anodized aluminum
  • Painted/coated metals
  • Stone, Marble, Granite, Soapstone, Onyx.

Using the Rotary Add-On

2023-03-11: THIS IS A DRAFT OF THE PROCESS TO USE THE ROTARY ADD-ON - Alex

The rotary add-on allows the user to engrave or cut cylindrical or round objects. There is a different setup involved that has to be done to get it ready, and it has to be un-done before you leave.

  1. Rotary Setup
    1. Turn on machine
    2. Lower Z-Table all the way down
    3. Remove honeycomb
    4. Place Rotary Add-On on table so it is parallel to the table
    5. Turn off machine
    6. Unplug Y-axis, plug in Rotary Add-On
    7. Turn machine back on, allow it to finish moving and calibrating
    8. Move the Y-axis by hand so the beam will be centered on the center axis of rotary add-on
    9. Ensure the head of the laser will not collide with the rotary add-on or material
  2. Using the Rotary
    1. Mount the material in the chuck (may need to swap out jaws depending on size or shape)
    2. If needed, protect your material from the bare metal jaws with foam, rubber, electrical tape.
    3. Slide the tail support up to the base of the material if needed to support (longer objects will definitely need it)
    4. Place design in lightburn where the rotary add-on is
    5. Measure the diameter of your piece
    6. -TODO: INSERT MATH TO FIGURE OUT DESIGN SCALE BASED ON DIAMETER/CIRCUMFERENCE
  3. Removing the Rotary
    1. Turn off the machine
    2. Remove material from the chuck
    3. Unplug the rotary
    4. Plug Y-axis back in
    5. Remove rotary add-on from machine
    6. Replace honeycomb bed
    7. Turn machine back on and test that it is operating normally

FAQs

How do I get certified to use the laser cutter? Same as any other power tool in the shop! If you haven't used this kind of machine before, take our Intro class on the relevant topic. If you have used a machine like this, then read up on this documentation and schedule a Safety Checkout with the General Manager or Shop Manager for that area.
How do I clean the laser cutter after I use it? Lift the aluminum honeycomb out and sweep up small pieces with the small dustbin on the pegboard in the Electronics Lab. Clean any residue by liberally applying isopropyl alcohol to a paper towel and scrubbing the residue - it should come off fairly easily. Plywood in particular tends to leave a lot of residue.
What do I do with my scrap materials? Usable pieces (rectangular preferred, plenty of usable space) can be added to the wooden materials container in the Electronics Lab.

Wood that is completely used can be deposited in the scrap wood bin in the wood shop. Any other materials get disposed of in the trash.


Maintenance

  • Vacuum the inside
    • The bed of the machine should be vacuum out regularly after cutting to clean up any small pieces that fall into the honeycomb.
  • Cleaning the lens and mirrors
    • Ask someone to show you how to clean these before attempting yourself!
    • A dirty lens can cause burnt gunk to build up and potentially crack the lens.
    • Here is a video from the ATX Hackerspace on cleaning their lens - How to Clean Laser Optics
  • Aligning the mirrors

Other Maintenance Items:


Parts

  • Laser Tube: 100W CO2 Reci W2 Product No. 780442
  • Lens
  • Mirrors: 25mm Diameter, Molybdenum coated.

External Resources

External Guides

LightBurn Video Guides:

Official LightBurn documentation

Highlights from LightBurn's documentation:

  1. Toolbars
  2. General Usage Hotkeys
  3. Creating Vectors
  4. Engraving Images
  5. Importing External Vectors

Where to Find Materials

  • The scrap bin by the laser cutter has plywood and acrylic
  • Inventables has acrylic sheet in many colors
  • Laserable Rubber on Amazon
  • Woodcraft in Newington - thin plywood of various sizes
  • HomeDepot or Lowes - plywood, acrylic, and various other materials
  • JoAnn Fabrics in Newington- fabrics, acrylic, plywood, and various other materials

Shape Generators

These can help create common but complex shapes for you to work with like boxes, gears, and more.

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